8 pitch route, with a maximum grade F6b +, 100 m. rope, 14 Quickdraw.
Keep in mind you are in a rich and fragile zone. If you suspect any nest of raptors while climbing, please don´t create other paths on your way back.
The road is closed during hunting season.
Gneiss protected but not sanitized route. 1.30 hour approach.
From the parking there is no traced path, you need to climb on the left bank of Rines torrent following an open knoll and then accross Essarts Wood to reach a large scree. Clim up the scree on left side 'ascending) to the Chamoissière Peak foot. The route starts on the left side of the wall.
3 to 6 hour route
Pitch 1 - 6a Climb straight and then left
P2- 6a+ Straight up, then slightly left, and come back right side in direction to the pine. The belay station is 5 meters above the pine.
P3 : 5c then 5a
P4 : 5b/c Go to the wall left side. Belay station at the top of the shoulder
P5 : 4 Get down using the slings in place. Traverse in 4 to the breach hidden by the tree
P6 : 6a+ Straight above. Belay station on the right
P7 : 6b>5bA0 Strong overhang
P8 : 6a/b
Way down :
Abseiling :
1- R8
2- Belay station is 10m under R7
3- R5 Get down 20 meters below then go down right
4-6- R3 to R1 of Mille Millions de mille Tabor
Notice:
NB: hunters of the area request to not climb in this sector during hunting period (automn) Please avoid conflict and respect their practice so they respect ours.)
Equipment:
Bibliography and webography:
Belledonne Escalade - Lionel Tassan - 2010
Route History:
Stanislas de Closmadeuc and Nicolas Arthaud, on September 4th, 5th and 6th of 2007 (open and protected from the bottom, studs and pads funded by CAF Mure Matheysine).