7 pitches, grades up to F6a+, 100m ropes, 14 quickdraws
Be carefull as you enter a rich but fragile area. If you suspect any raptors nesting on your way up, don't create other paths on the way down.
Approach : 1.30 hours.
From Rines Bridge parking, there is no traced path, you have to go up on the left bank of the Rines torrent, following a clear knoll and then accross the not-dense Essarts Woods until a large scree. There is no difficulty finding the way, you always see the Chamoissière Tour during the approach walk from the parking itself. Climb up the scree, quite steep in its last 100 meters untils the rocs foot. The route starts at the lowest point (1650m) of the rocs, slightly on the right, directly above a big distinctive pine on the wall.
3 to 6 hour route
1st pitch (P1) : 6a - uneasy start in 6a on few meters, then diagonally left 5b+ then 4c
P2 : 6a - Start in a small corner, pass the right side of the big pine to reach a ledgde. Climb on the spur straight away 5b+ then 6a
P3 : 5b - Easy start, left side detour (5b+) to reach a nice slab (4c), then a steep fissure (hard 5b)
P4 : 5c - Start in a corner (5b) and beautiful spur (5b) with a short hard 5c part in the middle.
P5 : 5a - Traverse up on the right (5a) to reach a corridor to climb up (4b) to the 2nd big dry pine.
P6 : 5b+ - Easy start straight up (4b), then in a splendid "dülfer"corner fissure (5b+) to reach the ridge that you follow first on the edge, and then right side (5b+ then 4c)
P7 : 4c - 10 meters straight up (4c) and follow the ridge edge turning on right. Climb over 3 little rocs (4c) to reach the Chamoissière Tower
Getting down :
6 rappels straight in the route, starting from R6.
Rappel from Chamoissière Tower top (R7) : 3 rappels out of the route, and 3 rappels in the route itself. First rappels twice to reach the shoulder :
RP1 45m - A first long rappel going diagonally to the left
RP2 50m - Belay station on a pilar edge, rappel until a shoulder
RP3 - Belay station is 5 meter far walkable distance, on a ledgde slightly below, on left side; very diagonally rappel.
RP4-RP6 - R3-R1 : rappel in the route itself
Notice :
Protected route with studs and pads funded by CAF Mure Matheysine.
The last pitch is on the ridge edge, where the roc may not be very good. The route is in a very mountain-style atmosphere, on a good quality gneiss roc with some lichen on it. Be careful as protections in place and rocs may be subjected to pressures. Once at the Tower's top, you can also keep on the whole ridge traverse (non-protected climbing/adventure ground) which is a long route.
Please note that its is requested not to climb in this area during hunter season. Let's respect hunter's practices so they'll respect ours.
Equipment :
Half rope 2x50m, 14 quickdraws
Some slings may complete the protection in P7
Free access.
From 01/04 to 01/09.
Depending on hunting season and snow conditions.